Australian surfer Robyn Strano began surfing in 1963 and was one of the first female surfers in her area. Now in her 70s, Robyn still has an amazing infectious energy and love for surfing. Here she shares her gratitude for the simple things in life – an inspiration for to us all.
I lived near the beach. I just saw the waves and had to have a go. I just wanted to surf and that’s what I did. Being a female surfer in the 60s, it wasn’t as competitive and aggressive as it is now. Why should men have all the fun when women can have it too? When you live in a small town, the locals know you and have respect for you in the surf, and they love to see women surfing.