Words by: Corinne Evans | Photos Megan Hemsworth
Let’s be honest for a second, we all surf way better in our heads then we do in reality, and I don’t know about you guys, but I am cool with that. In my head, I have the style and powerful surfing ability of Stephanie Gilmore, but the reality couldn’t be further from that. Who cares, as long as I am having fun, enjoying the waves and getting in the surf, I couldn’t care less what others may think of my surfing skills or if I look like a kook from time to time.
At no point am I trying to become a competitive world-class surfer, I surf for the pure fun of surfing. I do it for myself and the love of the sport. I ride the boards I enjoy, in the conditions I like. If I wipe out, it’s okay, if I land a turn even better but as you’ve probably guessed all I am concerned about is having fun.
At no point am I trying to become a competitive world-class surfer, I surf for the pure fun of surfing.
Way back when I used to stress about how I looked when I surfed, I by this is don’t mean what I hair looked like, I am referring to my stance, ability and how my turns seemed. I wouldn’t paddle into waves if people were watching me, which is crazy I know but I just felt so self-conscious in the surf that it held me back. Looking back, I cannot pinpoint the moment I stopped caring and let go of my fears, maybe it came with age or just time in the water, but whatever it was it was something that felt like it happened overnight.
From the moment I stopped worrying about how my surfing looked I started having so much more fun
From the moment I stopped worry about how my surfing looked I started having so much more fun, I enjoyed being in the water and let my inhibitions go. If I popped up and went straight without trying a turn I didn’t beat myself up; i just felt stoked to be on a wave.
I have been surfing for well over a decade now (wow I feel old!) but in this time I have had horrendous hold downs, countless wipeouts, face plants and missed waves, and all of these have helped me progress. I’ve been on my fair share of surf trips with photographers and videographers and cringed every time I saw the video clips and images because apparently in my head I surfed better than I did in reality. I used to dread looking at them, but now I love it! Not because I have suddenly started surfing like Tyler Wright, but more because I enjoy surfing more than ever. I love being out in the surf, on the waves and don’t care what I look like. Sometimes I kook it, sometimes I don’t, sometimes I land turns, but most of the time I won’t! It’s all part of being a surfer, and I am stoked to see my waves captured, even if I don’t always look like I know what I am doing, it doesn’t matter, because I am having fun!
I guess what I am trying to say to any surfers out there that may be feeling a little insecure about their surfing if you’re surfing for fun, then make sure you make it fun. Don’t pile on the pressure; you’re not surfing a world title contention heat, you’re merely going for a surf at your local break. So kick back, relax and enjoy the waves. No one cares if you wipe out all the time, or face plant a wave. For many surfing is a way to escape from the stresses of real life so keep it enjoyable, it doesn’t need to be full of pressure.