I’m gutted about the earthquake in Chile.  I spent a joyous two months in Pichilemu in early 2006.  It is a small  fishing village and home of the famous left point break Punta de Lobos.  It was only 70 miles from the epicentre of the quake.

I arrived for no better reason than having [...]

Ah, what I wouldn’t give for a winter surf right now.  The coldest, windiest, most heart-achingly, nose-drippingly, toe-numbingly frigid kind.  You think I’m trying to be funny, but I’m not.  I’m serious.

When I got the news that I was going to Washington D.C, capitol city of the good ole U.S.A, for three months, [...]