ODDS AND SODS ON THE ISLAND OF THE GODS

WEEK 1

I’d been to Bali before so was familiar with the tourist set up, however, whilst in transit in Singapore I suddenly realised I had no real plan, wasn’t sure where I was going, had no friends to meet and was arriving in Bali at midnight!  A snap decision later, I had emailed a homestead in Ubud, hoping to at least have accommodation sorted for the night.  Once I’d landed, I caught a taxi there.  Yes, I was heading inland and away from the waves, but the reports told me I wasn’t missing much, plus I really wanted try some other things before planting myself firmly by the coast.  Staying in a quiet homestay I started to relax into Ubud life, wandering around the Monkey Forest and attending daily open yoga classes at the amazing yoga barn.

For those of you that have read the book Eat, Pray, Love you might have a bit more insight into the village of Ubud as it’s where the author resides for 3 months (for those who haven’t read the book – the movie, starring Julia Roberts, is out soon).  There’s a huge ex pat community and it has a very spiritual feel to it, with lots of massage, meditation groups and new age workshops going on.  I spend an afternoon at Wayan’s (the healer, as featured in the book) where I eat the most delicious and exotic vegetarian meal followed by a reading from her.

After 4 days, I’m feeling rejuvenated and refreshed, and like it’s time to move on – something’s missing; the sea!  I head south to Padang Bai which is renound for it’s crystal clear waters and abundant sealife.  Organising transport is so easy in Bali; you go to a travel operator, who all speak English, buy a ticket, which is next to nothing et Voila; you’re on the road!

I’m a qualified PADI diver, but haven’t been diving in about 2 years so was keen to get straight back into it and check out the reef that forms the amazing waves of Bali from a different angle.  Padang Bai is great for snorkelling too, a young black tipped reef shark swims past me as I get some snorkel time in before my dives.  Gekko Dive take me out to Blue Lagoon and I submerge for the first time in a while, getting used to the weird sensation again.  I feel diving really makes me appreciate the ocean on a whole new level, building on the experience of just floating on it.  You get to witness this incredible world and infrastructure that is just so serene and perfect; and when you go back to bobbing on the top you have more understanding and respect for what’s beneath you.  My second dive involves visiting an old wreck and its amazing to think about the cycle of life with regards to it, us and the sea.

After diving I’m keen to move on from Padang Bai so get the next boat out of there.  It’s heading to the island of Nusa Penida and it turns out I’m the only tourist – much to the amusement of a local family who start taking a million photos of me with them in the waiting room.

Made is a guide who rescues me at the port at the other end.  He sorts me out with a place to stay and a moped, and points me in the direction of a nice beach.  I find Crystal Cove Bay; which is deserted apart from the man who hands me a coconut to drink from.  There’s perfect, peeling lefthanders running off the island into the bay; it’s a shame they’re only 30cm high.  After a checking out the island, and feeling like an international celebrity with the hospitality of the islanders and the frenzied children, the next day Made helps me onto the boat headed for the mainland.  As it approaches Sanur I spot surfers on the reef, I’m stoked there’s waves, even though it’s only small and jump straight in for my first surf in Bali.