SURF CONFIDENCE PART 2

by Joel Gray

Confidence comes from success (which basically means surfing well) and also from being well prepared (even for quick free-surf), as well as having that strong feeling of capability — the ‘I can do this’ mentality.

In terms of preparation it’s always a good idea to get the basics down. Sticky wax job, nice light leash, great feeling and looking board. More than that though, you need to be up for it. This is where you might have to work hard when the waves are a bit challenging or you’re feeling tired or whatever. Wake yourself up with a fast-paced warm-up and a bit of a chat to yourself. Say to yourself, “I‘m going to have a sweet surf, I’m going to rip, I’m out there to have fun,” — things like this can all help create that positive mental attitude. If you’re on a deserted beach, why not open up your lungs and shout it out? Try to remember you last good surf and the feelings that gave you. Okay, now you’re nearly ready.

Another good way to prepare yourself is visualising what you’re going to do. First up you need to analyse the waves so you know what they’re doing. Look at the speed of the lip line, the curve of the transition and things like that. Now decide what you would want to do on that wave and visualise it. There are two ways to do this; one is to picture yourself on the wave as if you were looking at it as an observer, and the other is to imagine yourself on the wave looking at it through your own eyes. This will help your decision-making and awareness once out there and increase your chances of success.

Another important factor is to give yourself some warm up time. I remember watching Carissa Moore paddle out in Hawaii a couple of years ago. Her first few waves looked pretty ordinary — just cruising down the line, a couple of floaters and kicking out. “She’s not that good,” said one of the groms watching. “Just wait and see,” said the all-knowing coach. Sure enough, 20 minutes in she was tail-wafting and throwing 360s in the shorebreak. So give yourself some time to get into the waves and read what’s happening before hitting top gear — whether that’s hitting the lip or getting your first green wave, this principle is the same. Let your confidence grow and your performance will come with it, and so the cycle of success is born.

Confidence is a feeling, and to help keep that positive vibe try to surround yourself with smiley happy people. Make an effort to time your surf with your favourite girl crew and avoid scenarios like being taken to a scary reef by a boyfriend with a different agenda.

If you find yourself in a confidence plummet it’s time to re-assess. More often than not it’s because your expectations don‘t match the conditions and you’re beating yourself up about not succeeding. Go back to looking at what the waves are doing. If you had planned and visualised working on your top turns but you can’t get them, maybe the waves are too fat and it’s time to adjust and refocus on something else, say cutbacks. If it’s starting to close out, think about maybe just trying your angled take-offs and getting along the line as fast and as far as possible, rather than doing any turns.

If the size of the surf is kicking your confidence, try to find a safe spot in the lineup and watch what’s happening. You can then try to take one of the smaller waves. Everyone has limits, and just being out there is always good for you in the long run.

Whatever you do out there, if you give it your best shot you’ll return to shore and look back knowing that you survived. No matter how cautious you were, you’ll have just added a brick to your confidence wall for the next time the swell’s up.

Joel Gray from Surf Solutions is one of Britain’s top coaches, creating progressive, professional coaching programmes for all levels of surfer in the UK and around the world. Go to www.surfsolutions.tv for more info.

Tags: surf, Surfing, technique, tips